by James Selby
these satisfying wines bridge the gap between winter and summer
Spring awakens changes in the earth and in ourselves. The weather is temperate one day, blustery the next. It effects our routines, what we wear, eat, ergo, what wine we drink. Here’s the dilemma: The whites and rosés—so ideal for the dogdays of summer—may be too light and zesty; a winter’s red— too deep and dark for this season. What’s needed are wines of refreshing acidity yet robustly satisfying.
Chenin Blanc: A dexterous grape of exceptional quality in all price ranges, producing round, floral, tony wine reined in by the variety’s brightness. Exciting examples are coming from South Africa. (Badenhorst “Secateurs” $16)
Grüner Veltliner: Austria’s approachable, sophisticated, exotic white for any budget should be on everyone’s lips. Desert dry, its nutty, white pepper, mineral impressions cavort with lime and grapefruit flavors. (Hiedler “Loess” $19)
Etna Bianco: Mount Etna, on the slopes of an active volcano in Sicily, is a majestic region. Native carricante and catarratto grapes thrive in high elevation vineyards giving a vibrant blend of texture and tension, aromatic of citrus, peach and anise. (Graci Etna Bianco $30)
Gamay Noir: The progeny of France’s Beaujolais region, gamay is taking root in Oregon next to its first cousin, pinot noir. Showing gumption, elegant power, accents of dried cherry, peppercorn and spicy chocolate, its velvety accents are crisp and precise. (Ridgecrest “Old Vine Estate” $28)
Mencía: This ancient grape of Galicia, from the mountainous northeast of Spain, has savory, silky, rustic appeal, plus tangy, luscious red fruit and slate-laden minerality. (Guímaro “Tinto” $17)
Cabernet Franc: This classic French bistro wine, grown biodynamically in the Loire Valley, is deeply colored, soft, lively and fragrant. Gracefully structured, imparting regional distinction and finesse. (Lambert “Les Terrasses” $22)
This assortment of varietals is sure to awaken your palate. Experiment with each of them to create pleasurable, versatile pairings for your favorite flavors of spring. It’s time to put away your trusty red and make the transition to a spring bouquet.
