by Rebecca Toy
your new everyday chardonnay
ONE OF THE WINE WORLD’S most polarizing stars is chardonnay, evoking instant assumptions of buttery weight and oaky depth. Yet Oregon’s Willamette Valley, stretching 150 miles south of Portland, is snapping stigmas with a style characterized by juicy succulence, bright acidity, plush texture, and the range of volcanic and marine minerality that defines Pacific Northwest wines.
The valley’s winemakers took cues from Burgundy—the regions share a cool climate latitude—and dialed in picking precision for ripeness. Now the Willamette Valley, long known for pinot noir, has another variety with international acclaim. While the region has doubled its limited chardonnay acreage since 2014, it’s a fight for the few thousand acres of fruit. Evening Land Vineyards, Lingua Franca and Domaine Drouhin are touted producers along with Morgen Long, an exclusively chardonnay winemaker.
With plenty of stakes in chardonnay, Soter Vineyards makes the most of its northern valley sites for the Estates Chardonnay. This winery’s diverse options allow it to play, with stunners like its 2022 vintage, which layers fragrant lychee, yellow apple, zesty lemon, toasted almond and a rich, starchy breadfruit. Chris Fladwood, Soter’s winemaker, values the palate-driving acidity with the lingering elegance of chalky minerality.
Guests to Soter’s Mineral Springs Ranch tasting room— an hour southwest of Portland near Carlton—can best savor this wine’s versatility with a reservations-only Provisions Experience. The vineyard’s 250- acre certified biodynamic farm is the perfect hilltop perch for the winery to marry its prize labels with Oregon’s locally sourced, seasonal cooking ethos. For at-home hosting, executive chef Clayton Allen recommends smoky, earthy, umami-rich pairings as well as citrusy touches with textured finishes. Think smoked salmon, chickpea flatbread with rosemary and mushrooms, or whipped ricotta with orange oil.
Whether in the shadow of Mt. Hood or the comfort of your own casa, Willamette’s chardonnay will bring crisp and elevated pours to your glass this spring.
