by James Selby
the grapes that make Muscadet wine flourish thanks to the coastal climate
MUSCADET, wine considered an incomparable match for seafood, has an image problem. For one, don’t confuse it with Muscatel, a generic name for sweet wine, or with Muscat and Muscadine grapes. Muscadet (mus-kah-day) isn’t a grape at all, it’s a geographical area in the lower Loire Valley bordering the Atlantic Ocean. Like most great wine of France, it’s labeled for the region. The grape, Melon de Bourgogne or Melon, was originally grown in Burgundy, hence the name, but 18th century farmers in Loire discovered it thrived in their coastal countryside.
Stereotypically, Muscadet is an inexpensive, buoyant wine. However, from today’s progressive winemakers, what’s in savvy wine shops and restaurants is more complex and exotic while remaining a value. Unlike ubiquitous chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, Muscadet won’t have its own section on the shelf or a list. Look for it among French whites and Loire Valley offerings from the better subzones of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu or Anjou-Coteaux-de-la-Loire. Also, seek bottles with “Sur Lie” embossed on the neck, which certifies an aging technique that keeps wine in contact with yeast cells adding flavor and texture.
If I were to suggest a pairing for oysters or ceviche, Muscadet would be it—but its taste profile is broader than that. With shades of ripe pear, lime, a savory salinity and lusciously fresh, it’s a fine partner for tart cheeses like chevre, aged Asiago, manchego, ham and cheese sandwiches or a pan bagnat (think salade niçoise between bread), pulled pork and fried chicken.
Top Muscadet Choices
Domaine Les Trois Toits Muscadet
Sèvre-et-Maine “Phileas,” $21
Famille Lieubeau Muscadet Gneiss de
Bel Abord Sèvre-et-Maine, $18
Domaine du Grand Mouton-Louis
Métaireau Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine
Sur Lie Carte Noire, $23
Domaine des Quatre Routes Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, $15
Domaines Vinet Maléco La Haye
Fouassière Pays Nantais Muscadet
Sparkling Brut, $20
