by Heather Shoning
no, not the show … visit the birthplace of America’s National Park System
WHILE THE TELEVISION SHOW did take America by storm, you can find an equally dramatic diversion in real life at the nation’s first national park. From the rich history to the mysterious lore to the roads less taken, you’re sure to discover a new favorite spot to visit or remember what you’ve always loved about this magical place.
A Historical View
Yellowstone National Park is located primarily in Wyoming but also extends into Montana and Idaho encompassing 3,472 square miles. It was the world’s first national park, established in 1872 by the U.S. Congress and signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant. However, the history of Yellowstone, of course, goes back much further than its establishment as a national park. Scientists have discovered artifacts indicating that Native American tribes inhabited the area more than 11,000 years ago. The park contains many historical and cultural sites significant to these tribes, including hunting grounds, sacred sites and artifacts.
The first recorded visit by a non-Native American was in 1807. John Colter, a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, was the first person to describe the geothermal features of the area, including the famous Old Faithful geyser. In the following decades, the area became more well-known to explorers and fur traders, but it wasn’t until the 1860s that serious efforts were made to survey and document the site.
Over the years, Yellowstone has faced many challenges, including wildfires, invasive species and illegal hunting.
However, the park has remained a popular destination for visitors worldwide and continues to be a center for scientific research and conservation efforts.
Fun Facts
Although the park is famous for its incredible geothermal features, including hot springs, geysers and mud pots (where surface water collects in a shallow, impermeable depression in the clay mud), there are several fun and quirky things to know about Yellowstone before you go.
Half the world’s hydrothermal features are found at Yellowstone: more than 10,000. Heat-loving microorganisms called thermophiles live in the hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles (openings where volcanic gases and vapors are emitted), travertine terraces and geysers, and give the park its brilliant colors.
Old Faithful isn’t as reliable as its name. Yellowstone has more geysers than anywhere else on earth, with the most famous being, of course, Old Faithful, which got its name in 1870 for its regularity. However, over the last few decades, the average interval between eruptions has lengthened, calling into question its “faithfulness.” Even if it’s not always on time, it does erupt more frequently than any of the park’s other large geysers—around 17 times a day.
If you aim to see wildlife, Yellowstone is the place to be. It’s home to the largest concentration of mammals in the lower 48 states, including grizzly bears, wolves, lynx, fox, moose and elk. Bison is one of the park’s biggest draws. The herds in Yellowstone have lived in the park continuously since prehistoric times.
Yellowstone has its own Grand Canyon created by erosion from the Yellowstone River. It’s more than 1,000 feet deep and roughly 20 miles long. And a mysterious underground river runs beneath the park, carrying water from the hot springs and geysers to the surrounding rivers and lakes.
There’s a phenomenon known as “lake music.” Explorers and tourists have reported a strange buzzing sound that has moved across Yellowstone Lake since the park’s inception. Visitors who camp in the lake area still report hearing the sound today—and despite numerous scientific studies, none have explained what causes the strange sonance.
Unfamiliar Territory
If you prefer to avoid some crowded areas—because, let’s face it, Yellowstone is always busy—give these alternatives a try.
The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone might be the most spectacular sight in the park, and the Mount Washburn Trail offers a less-populated way to see it. The views from the trail’s 10,243-foot summit stretch 20 to 50 miles. You can reach it from the Dunraven Pass Trailhead (6.2 miles round trip) or the Chittenden Road parking area (5 miles round trip). Keep an eye out for bighorn sheep along the way.
With its shimmering deep blue and orange hues, Grand Prismatic Spring is yet another most-loved spot, which is easy to see based on the foot traffic on its expansive boardwalk. For a more serene experience, view it from the Fairy Falls Trail. There’s a small parking area near the trailhead, and a half-mile trek takes you to a viewing platform where you can enjoy the spring and the Midway Geyser Basin views without rubbing elbows with other visitors.
The 136-square-mile Yellowstone Lake boasts 100 miles of shoreline, and while Lake Village, the Fishing Bridge and Bridge Bay Marina on the north shore are certainly worth visiting, avoid the crowd by going to the West Thumb area. Named for its appendagelike shape, it has a namesake geyser basin, views of Abyss Pool—the park’s deepest hydrothermal pool—fumaroles, paint pots (mud pots with colors derived from oxidation states of the iron in the mud) and hot springs.
Despite the abundance of water in the park—more than 10,000 thermal features, about 2,500 miles of streams and rivers, and more than 600 lakes and ponds—there aren’t many opportunities to swim or soak. The thermals are much too hot, and the lakes are too cold. But just north of Mammoth Hot Springs, a thermal feature meets the snow-fed Gardner River, resulting in a string of natural pools that are the perfect soaking temperature. The area is open seasonally, so check before you go, but when you do: Jump right in; the water’s fine!
Although you’re not likely to run into John or Beth Dutton or witness any of the made-for-TV drama, a visit to Yellowstone National Park is sure to inspire awe with its breathtaking vistas, thrill thanks to the magnificent thermal features, and a sense of pride in our country’s history for creating and preserving such an unspoiled marvel.
Plan your visit at nps.gov/yell
