by Jessa Cast
a new speakeasy focuses on an elevated experience
IN A NOB HILL ALLEY stands an unassuming door marked “Bakery.” Knock to gain entry to a tiny space that does indeed sell baked goods and pastas. But armed with a reservation, you’re admitted through a hidden door to Albuquerque’s newest speakeasy, Teddy Roe’s.
The brainchild of co-owners and celebrated bartenders Jessica O’Brien and Arcy Law, Teddy Roe’s came to fruition in alliance with M’Tucci’s Restaurants (their newest of which, Bar Roma, shares the building). Law and O’Brien wanted a memorable space offering superior fare and service. To that end, they crafted a dark, cozy space with old photographs, fringed lampshades and a piano, all of which nod to the cocktail glam of the 1920s Prohibition-era secret establishments.
Wanting to highlight a lesser-known figure from bootlegging history, they named the speakeasy after Theodore “Teddy” Roe, a 1940s B lack bootlegger-turned-policy king (a mob boss of an illegal, multi-million-dollar gambling empire that funneled money into Chicago’s poor Black society). Despite his mobster role, Teddy ardently doled out financial assistance to his community, Robin Hood-style, until his mafia-ordered assassination in 1952.
On the menu, house cocktails reflect Teddy Roe’s life and era. Fresh ingredients are prepared daily and served in a gorgeous array of cocktail-specific glassware. Enjoy the gin-based Policy Kings, or the rye whiskey-centered The Teddy Roe (AKA The Black Robin Hood). Classic cocktails, beer and wine are also available. The Genuine Risk includes what is these days a rather rare and very vintage ingredient—clarified milk punch. For the adventurous, give the bartender your preferred flavor profile and let them create something novel for you.
“Think about speakeasies in the 1920s …
what do you think they were eating?”
– Arcy Law
Noshes includes elevated bar food like shrimp cocktail, gourmet popcorn and a charcuterie board, and continues to expand for both carnivores and vegetarians. Truly hungry? Dive into the Baller Steak Frites. This 20-ounce, bone-in steak, daubed with a porcini compound butter and accompanied by pork-fat fries, is a commitment. “Think about speakeasies in the 1920s—Al Capone and his gang—what do you think they were eating? We wanted to go big,” says Law.
This modern-day speakeasy doesn’t require a password, but reservations are a must. Seating options vary with each block limited to two hours. Reserve an intimate fireplace corner with a sofa for two, a table for four or belly up to the bar. “You can come in and have a different experience each time,” says O’Brien.
To preserve the ambience, Teddy Roe’s has a strict policy against phone calls. “There’s nothing more irritating than someone next to you on their phone while you’re enjoying an intimate setting,” says Law. For that urgent call (or just for fun), there’s a classic telephone booth. Teddy Roe’s offers an exclusive annual membership for $1,000. Perquisites include priority reservations, Member Mondays special events, three guests per visit, a branded bottle of bourbon and a numbered membership coin, to name just a few. “Membership perks are always growing,” says Law.
For your next night on the town, consider gussying up in your vintage best and relish the Prohibition-era atmosphere of Teddy Roe’s.
