by James Selby
grab a unique Grüner Veltliner for spring
NOTHING SO BECOMES THE BOUNTY of spring than a lively crisp white wine, sophisticated yet quaffable, bringing fascination to every sip. Beyond well-known varieties, Grüner Veltliner is one of the world’s notable grapes and increasingly sought after. Its uniqueness shows in aromas of yellow apple and white pepper with flavors of ginger, lime and dried herbs in a balancing act between acidity and lushness.
Austria is the world’s epicenter of Grüner (grew-nur), as it’s casually called, a tremendous bargain for quality and unfailing satisfaction in all price ranges. Everyday versions, commonly bottled in liters, provide idyllic patio drinkability and charm. Ask your wine shop for those from Berger, Hofer or Hiedler wineries ($14-23). Finer interpretations in traditional 750 milliliter sizes sell for not much more. The 300-year-old estate of Hermann Moser’s Ried (“single vineyard”) Gebling has notions of yellow pear, baked lemon and miso ($20). Respected fourthgenerational winemaker Bernhard Ott produces tangy Am Berg (“from the mountain”), redolent of watercress and warm stone ($25).
The next plateau is revelatory, making you ask how so much flavor came from grapes. Willi Bründlmayer’s Ried Loiserberg reveals silky melon, meadow herbs and white blossoms ($35). Near Vienna, Gobelsburg occupies a castle and vineyards dating from the 11th century; the quiet, slender power of their Ried Renner, texturally rich, nuanced accents of basil and pear skin, glide over your palate ($50).
Seek Grüner from Hungary, Northern Italy, New Zealand and the few progressive winemakers in the U.S. championing the variety, such as Martin Woods in the Willamette Valley of Oregon (Havlin Vineyard, $35), or Vocal Vineyards of Monterey, California (Alfaro Vineyard, $38).
For occasions casual or celebratory, paired with grilled asparagus, artichokes, prosciutto with melon, sausage, schnitzel, trout or tapas, Grüner Veltliner, according to “The Wine Bible” author Karen MacNeil, “is the vinous equivalent to perfect pitch.”
