::DEPARTMENTS:: Su Cuisine

Cooking with King Richard II

By Cathy Robbins

Anita Obermeier’s reputation preceded her arrival at the University New Mexico last fall. Yes, she had a doctorate in medieval English literature. But the buzz at a reception welcoming new professors was about the medieval meal she had prepared for her students, colleagues, and visitors at her last two jobs, at UCLA and Arizona State. (The dean of the Arizona Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies had even asked Obermeier to cook for the center’s opening reception.)

When would she cook for New Mexicans? That question was on scholars’ and students’ lips. Obermeier had barely settled into her new job when she sent out invitations. With cutting and slicing help from colleagues and students, she would cook for 40 or so guests. Her husband, Dave Buchholz, would watch their toddler Isabella and lend a hand on cooking day. She followed her usual procedure: Decide on the menu, make a plan that includes a half day of shopping and a full day for advance preparations, and finally, assign tasks to helpers.

The menu was daunting:

• Pumpkin Shrimp Soup
• Brie Tarts
• Faux Venison Stew
• Saffron Rice
• Salmon and Fruit Pie
• Mushroom and Leek Ragout
• Salad, Bread, and Herbed Butter
• Dried and Fresh Fruit
• Lenten Pie
• Pears in Sandalwood Sauce
• Ypocras (spiced wine)
• California Merlot and Chardonnay
• Sparkling Crisp Cider (Knudsen and Martinelli)

Though in ye olden days the king’s or prince’s kitchen would have employed an entire staff to prepare such a menu, Obermeier was sanguine, relaxed. She explained that virtually all the ingredients are available in supermarkets or specialty stores, and most of the dishes are similar to modern food (she would not, for instance, be serving a whole roast ox).

In fact, the dishes have some of the feel of the food she cooked and ate when she was growing up on her family’s farm outside Munich. As a young girl, Obermeier was responsible for the Sunday meal, and some traditions had not changed since medieval times. Vegetables and herbs came right out of the family’s large garden, and the nearby forest was full of mushrooms and berries for picking. What appeared on the table depended on what was in season, and many ingredients were made from scratch. (Obermeier still makes her own herb vinegars.) Also, she is familiar with some medieval foods—stews, for instance—because they survive in German home cooking. A medieval recipe for cheesecake with elder flowers baked inside is not an oddity, because batter-fried elder flowers are still eaten in Germany.

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Photo by Julie Dean

Faux Venison Stew.

SU CUISINE RECIPE
Faux Venison Stew

• 3 T. bacon fat
  
• 1 medium onion
  
• 2 pounds boneless chicken cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
  
• 1/4 cup flour
  
• 1/4 cup bread crumbs (optional)

Combine and blend these ingredients in a bowl:

• 1 1/2 c. boiling water or beef stock
• 1 1/2 c. red wine
• 1 t. finely minced fresh ginger or
  powered ginger
• 1 T. or more vinegar
• 1/2 c. currants
• salt

Melt bacon fat in a large saucepan or stew pot until it is crisp. Sauté the onion in the desired amount of fat until it is transparent then set aside.

Dredge the chicken pieces in flour, then brown them in a skillet in batches, combining each batch with some of the onion. Transfer to the stew pot and pour the combined ingredients over the chicken and onions.

Cover and simmer the stew for about 2 hours until the meat is tender. Add bread crumbs to thicken if desired. Add more wine if desired.