Loving Las Vegas

Like all great places, Las Vegas, New Mexico, exists in the landscape of the heart and mind and imagination as well as in a geographical place. Nestled on the banks of the Gallinas River, Las Vegas is a real and virtual and storied town all at once, a potent source of memory, reflection, and expectation.

Many architects have told me (enthusiastically, usually) that Las Vegas is their favorite town in New Mexico, a community they often bring out-of-state visitors to, perhaps to marvel at the city’s many anomalies and contradictions, and certainly to study the town’s wonderful ensemble of historic buildings.

Las Vegas’ Beginnings
Las Vegas emerged on the high plains of northeastern New Mexico during the short-lived Mexican era (1821–1846), after the Santa Fe Trail commerce attracted enough military protection to risk a permanent settlement in hostile Comanche territory. A plaza was laid out by the two dozen or so founding families (from San Miguel del Vado) soon after 1835. The need to shelter and protect the occasional wagon caravan likely explains the generous dimensions of the square, probably the largest plaza in New Mexico.


Photo © Jack Parsons
Bridge Street in Las Vegas, New Mexico, preserves the bustling cheerfulness of the railroad-era.

Las Vegas grew organically but haphazardly for the next few decades, its new structures nourished either by the meager streams trickling through the Gallinas River and its acequia madre or by the stronger rivers of revenue flowing from the Missouri traders. Churches and saloons presented the most visible evidence of civilization in Las Vegas; by 1874 the Presbyterians constructed a fine Greek Revival (Territorial Style) temple (still standing) only two blocks from the notorious Buffalo Bar (long since destroyed), clear evidence that virtue ultimately triumphs, even in Las Vegas.

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