Finding the Spirit of Place

Editor & Associate Publisher
Su Casa Magazine

You might think New Mexico had passed into myth so long ago—before Georgia O’Keeffe, before D. H. Lawrence, before Mary Austin, before Kit Carson, maybe about the time Josiah Gregg wandered down the Santa Fe Trail 175 years ago—that any chance of encountering its true essence lies buried under layers of accumulated legends and wish-fulfilling dreams. Sometimes you have to wonder what’s real.

Then you hear the stories of people like Carmen Velarde and Dolores Jacobs (both in this issue of Su Casa), who remind you that the spirit of the place is still here, just waiting for your attention.
Jacobs writes ably of her own experiences growing up in a small northern New Mexico village, relating them to the context of New Mexico’s mythology and even the evolution of a regional building style, so I’ll concentrate on Carmen Velarde. Before I stumble face forward into the trap of mythologizing her life, however, I’ll just say this: She is an authentic New Mexican in a very rich sense—by ancestry, by culture, by vocation, by spirituality, by the network of roots that bind someone to place.

Carmen is a fireplace maker, santero painter, majordomo of the San Francisco de Asís church in Ranchos de Taos, and family matriarch who lives in a place that reflects her identity back to her at every turn. She tools around in her big Ford truck like she owns the place. Not with attitude, never unfriendly but

instead welcoming, she moves about with the assurance that comes from belonging, from fully participating in one’s world, with the grace of natural leadership. Parts of her house are 300 years old, though admittedly it was “extensively remodeled,” as we would say today, first by her great-great-grandfather, a Mescalero Apache. Long before New Mexico achieved statehood, he persuaded Carmen’s great-great-grandmother to elope from Taos Pueblo to nearby Rancho de Taos.

Despite this ancestor’s defection, Carmen maintains close ties with her Taos Pueblo kinfolk. Meanwhile, the Ranchos house has stayed in the family. Here Carmen cooked meals till she was 16 on a fogon de campana, or traditional, counter-height corner fireplace in the kitchen. With her husband, Ernest, on this little knoll above the vegas, or haymeadows, she brought up her children. They still surround her, now raising children of their own. Such deep roots are a rare thing in modern America, particularly out west, where it can seem that everyone is a newcomer. While one suspects that Carmen’s life is as full of hope and disappointment, success and failure, joy and sorrow as anyone else’s, her profound connection to a specific place and community remains a rarity worth honoring. So when we invite a steward of tradition like Carmen Velarde to build a kiva fireplace in our home—be it in Dallas, Albuquerque, or Taos—we’re asking for more than a corner fireplace. We’re really after a slice of her world, preserved in bricks and mortar for a few more generations. It’s an homage to authenticity.